Winter is here, which means that temperatures across the US are dropping and interior humidity levels are dropping as well. This can cause a few changes in your hardwood floors appearance. Seasonal issues are one of the most common complaints that homeowners have this time of year. We’re here to ease your concerns, and provide you with the information you need to maintain and live with your hardwood floor.
Almost every wood floor will have some seasonal separation between the individual boards – gaps – throughout the floor during the fall and winter months. When the air inside a building is heated, such as during the winter months, the wood loses moisture as it seeks equilibrium with the drier conditions. This can cause the boards to shrink slightly. As a result, small gaps can begin to appear between the boards. This is completely normal and is directly related to the reduction of moisture in the surrounding air.
Once seasons change and the interior heating systems are turned off, or when supplemental humidification is introduced and the indoor environment regains moisture, most of these seasonal gaps will disappear.
All solid flooring should be expected to have seasonal gaps between boards during the dry months when no supplemental humidification is added. This is completely natural and is to be expected.
The width of the boards, the species, and how it’s cut from the log can all affect how much solid wood flooring is affected by this change in moisture. In general, how much solid wood flooring shrinks is directly proportional to its width. For example, an 8” plank will shrink twice as much as a 4” plank of the same species of wood.
Seasonal gaps between boards are more prominent with solid wood flooring products than with engineered wood flooring products. The structural composition of engineered wood flooring inherently allows it to be more dimensionally stable than solid wood flooring. Although engineered wood flooring is more dimensionally stable than its solid counterpart, it will still react to these low humidity levels but will show itself differently. When the relative humidity levels remain below the manufacturer’s recommendations for long enough, engineered flooring will begin to dry cup. When this happens, the wear layer loses moisture (same as its solid counterpart) and begins to shrink across its outer face, which can exert enough force on the core material to pull the edges of the plank upward. This causes a cupped appearance across the width of the board.
The effects of these seasonal fluctuations can be compounded in some new construction scenarios. Energy-conscious homebuyers and homebuilders have, in recent years, demanded tighter, more energy-efficient homes, which can inadvertently become detrimental to wood building components and their ability to perform, if not properly addressed. This construction practice, by design, prevents warm or cool air loss, but also seals in the new home’s moisture. Moisture from the entire building process is not allowed to dissipate quickly enough. This moisture comes from many sources including hundreds of gallons of water used in the placement of concrete, masonry, thin-set, tile mortar, drywall, plaster and many other building components. This will often cause wood flooring and wood subflooring to take on this moisture. When the home dries out and finally finds equilibrium in the home (often 6-12 months after the home has been moved into), the flooring and/or subflooring materials shrink, and again result in what could then be considered abnormal gaps. If the environment remains at these conditions, the gaps will likely never completely close back up in the humid months.
These types of abnormal gaps in wood floors, which do not close up in humid months, may involve solid or engineered wood flooring. A thorough job site inspection should be conducted to determine the actual cause when deemed “abnormal.” Abnormal gaps can be caused in many different ways including:
structural movement or settlement
improper fasteners
fastener schedule
inadequate subfloor
improper adhesive application
improper acclimation of the product
edge-crush from prior exposure to extreme moisture
poorly insulated heating duct below the floor
Assessing the Gaps
When assessing a customer complaint regarding gaps between boards, the first test should always be checking the interior temperature, relative humidity (RH), and moisture content of flooring, then comparing to the season in which you’re receiving the complaint. In these “seasonal situations,” the MC will likely be quite low. If you can gather these three pieces of information, you can easily assess whether the gapping is seasonal, by simply comparing your data, the EMC chart, and the seasonal fluctuations in your area.
If the cause of the gaps is clearly not seasonal, more investigation will be necessary. An NWFA Certified Inspector can provide a thorough, unbiased inspection of the entire job to help find the cause.
Solutions
Regardless of what environment a floor has been exposed to, or exists when inspected, removal and replacement of a wood floor to alleviate gaps is usually both unnecessary and self-defeating. All parties involved should clearly understand the natural properties of a wood floor. It is usually best to leave the gapped floor in place and repair as necessary, if possible. Once an existing floor has been acclimated to a home’s environment, it is far more likely to remain stable and, with professional repairs, can regain the appearance it had when new with no loss of service.
Normal gaps: If truly normal, in the sense that the gaps close up in summer months, no repairs are necessary. Any filler used to fill gaps when they appear – e.g., when the floor is dry – may permanently damage the flooring as the wood expands when it picks up moisture. In the process, filler, some of which are as hard as the wood, can crush the wood fibers along the edges of the boards. Thus, fillers may cause uglier gaps than those Mother Nature forced on the floors. A normal gap may have also been built into the floor, as an internal expansion joint (also known as a washer row). These built-in gaps should not be filled either. With the introduction of humidity, seasonal gaps will swell, and the gaps will disappear. This can be accomplished in two ways: (1) wait for the humid season while living with the seasonal gaps, or (2) introduce humidity to the facility with an adequate humidification system.
Dry Cupping: An engineered floor that has dry-cupped will often return to its intended state once humidity levels have been returned to within manufacturer tolerances. In severe cases, the wear layer may delaminate from the core material when stresses exceed the strength of the adhesives used in the manufacturing process (known as ply separation) or when the stresses exceed the strength of the wood fibers within the material itself (known as wood-shear). In these cases, the affected boards must be replaced.
Abnormal gaps: Even floors that have gone through a very high period of moisture absorption, then dried to leave abnormal gaps, can be repaired so that the gaps very nearly disappear. If the floor has a surface finish such as polyurethane, matching filler can be troweled into all gaps. When dry, the floor will likely need to be recoated. For larger gaps, inserting slivers may be necessary. In some cases, individual board replacement may be necessary.
Cost is a major factor in any purchasing decision when it comes to flooring. When you’re choosing between hardwood flooring and carpet, there is quite the difference in price, especially if you are considering the top-end options. If you are on a tight budget, this might eliminate hardwood flooring altogether.
Hardwood flooring is one of the more expensive flooring options on the market. That is because it is made from natural product – a tree – and not engineered to replicate another product. For this reason, hardwood flooring can be much more expensive than carpet.
In most cases, hardwood flooring can cost between $9 and $12 per square foot, including installation. However, some of the higher end versions can cost even more. Reclaimed wood, for example, could cost as much as $30 per square foot.
Carpet, on the other hand, is definitely much friendlier on the budget. Most carpet options cost between $3 and $5 a square foot installed, with padding and all. Some of the higher-end carpet options could come in closer to $10 a square foot.
Another big difference between hardwood flooring and carpet is the appearance. It would be very hard to confuse the two types of flooring because of how different they look. Depending on your style and the style of your house, one flooring choice could be much better than the other.
Hardwood flooring is what could be called the “prestige” choice in flooring. That’s because today, hardwood flooring is seen as a high-end and luxurious option. Current popular design is definitely trending toward hard flooring surfaces, and wood fits in perfectly with that.
While wood was always the classic look for homes, it has now worked its way back into the preference of most homeowners. Hardwood flooring can look sleek, rustic, timeless and luxurious. This is why many people are leaning toward hardwood flooring over carpet.
One of the other nice features of hardwood flooring is that it can take on many different looks. The different types of wood – such as oak and pine – will have a different appearance. Plus, there are many stains available on the market that you can apply to a hardwood flooring to make it look light, dark or in between.
Carpet is a much different look than hardwood flooring is. That is not to say that it is a cheaper look than hardwood flooring is. In fact, many people still prefer the look of carpet, especially in certain rooms of the house.
The great thing about carpet when it comes to appearance is you can choose just about any color under the sun. This makes carpet a very versatile flooring choice, as you can mix and match colors and shades based on other design choices in the room. Carpet can also look firm or plush, depending on the type you choose.
Hardwood flooring and carpet are also very different when it comes to how you need to clean and care for them. Each flooring type has its pros and cons in this regard. So which is better, hardwood or carpet?
Hardwood flooring is easier to maintain on a weekly basis. That’s because it doesn’t require very many deep cleanings. In fact, it is advisable that you don’t use liquid cleaning products on hardwood floors because it could warp and damage the material.
It is easier to spot dirt and dust on a hardwood floor than it is on carpet. As a result, it’s easier to spot when your floor needs a good cleaning. For hardwood flooring, that cleaning includes a recommended sweep and vacuum at least a few times a week to keep it clean.
Carpet, on the other hand, is a little tougher to keep clean. Dirt, dust, pollen, and other allergens can easily get stuck within the fibers of a carpet and stay hidden from your eye. That’s why carpets are sometimes a hard choice in high-traffic areas or as a flooring for families with pets.
Carpet requires vacuuming and/or sweeping at least once a week. Thinking longer term, your carpet will also require a more in-depth shampooing at least once a year. The frequency of that cleaning will also depend on how rough on it you are and what color you choose.
When you are considering the durability of hardwood flooring versus carpet, there are a few different angles that you have to consider. Not only do you have to take into consideration the overall lifespan of the flooring type, but you should also weigh the effect of your daily life on it.
In terms of daily life, hardwood flooring is very susceptible to damage from spills or rough usage. That’s because the material itself is natural and softer in terms of its composition. Hardwood floors can warp with too much liquid and can dent or scratch from furniture or shoes, especially high heels.
Because of this fact, many families will have a “no shoes” policy on their hardwood floors. This helps to keep the flooring protected from damage from shoes or anything the shoes may drag into the house. It’s also why people sometimes shy away from installing hardwood floors into bathrooms or kitchens.
Long term, hardwood is designed to last. If you care for it properly, some hardwood flooring can last up to 100 years before you need to replace it. And if the floor starts to fade, you can sand, re-surface and re-stain a hardwood floor a few times in its lifespan.
In the short term, carpet can be the more forgiving flooring type. While indents can be made on carpet, it’s not as susceptible to heavy furniture or other dings. Spills on carpet are often a nightmare, but they can be scrubbed clean.
In the long term, though, carpet is not the most durable flooring option. That’s because if a rip, tear or permanent stain occurs, you must replace at least the damaged section. In addition, a carpet floor will need a full replacement every five to 15 years, depending on wear and tear.
The next area of discussion between hardwood versus carpet is what each product is comprised of. This topic is especially important today, as people are becoming more conscious of what each product they buy is made of.
Hardwood flooring is natural and ecologically friendly. This is because it is a natural material that is made from trees that can be replanted when they are cut down. Like anything, though, make sure to do your research on the company producing the hardwood if you want to be extra environmentally-conscious.
Carpet, meanwhile, is made mostly from petroleum. It’s not a material that most people would consider natural or sustainable in any way. In fact, petroleum is an extremely limited resource.
For some people, it all comes down to comfort when they are choosing a flooring type. It’s more about how a flooring feels than whether the style is trendy. This can be especially true depending on which room you are potentially outfitting with either hardwood or carpet.
As no surprise, hardwood flooring is a harder material than carpet. It can often be tougher on your feet, especially when you are standing for a long period of time. Hardwood is also not that comfortable to kneel or lay on, which can be important factors if you have children who will be in the room a lot.
Carpet, meanwhile, is a much softer and more comfortable material. It’s plush and soft and very easy on your feet and your body. It’s one of the main reasons why people choose carpet over hardwood in waterproof basements, family rooms and bedrooms.
Safety should be a major concern when you are making a choice between any types of flooring and for whatever room you might install it in. This is an important factor not only if you have kids, but if it will be just adults in a house. Safety first, is what they say.
Hardwood flooring is not as safe when compared to carpet. That’s because over time, individual planks in the flooring could rise or lift, which could result in a tripping hazard. In addition, as a hardwood floor gets older, it’s possible that nails in it could start to rise above the floor level, which can be very dangerous if someone steps on them.
Carpet is a much safer flooring type in comparison for the simple fact that it’s so much softer. It isn’t as much of a concern when it comes to tripping, and if a fall does occur, there is padding to help protect people’s bodies. This cushioning also helps protect against dropped objects such as glass that could result in dangerous cuts and scrapes.
Temperature and noise might not be the first things that come to your mind when you are choosing between flooring types. However, each type of floor will have a big effect on both the warmth and noise level in your home. So which is better, hardwood flooring or carpet?
Hardwood is a much colder and noisier flooring type because it doesn’t have absorption properties. Heat doesn’t absorb into hardwood floors, which makes them much colder to walk on, especially in the winter months. At the same time, noise bounces off hardwood flooring, which could make rooms with hardwood noisier as it results in an echo effect.
Carpet is the complete opposite when it comes to insulation and noise. It has absorption properties, which makes it a much warmer surface and much more comfortable in that regard in the colder months. Carpet also absorbs noise, reducing the decibel level in rooms that have it installed in it.
As you can see, there are many factors that you need to take into consideration when you’re weighing hardwood flooring versus carpet. The answer to the question, “Which is better?” really depends on your particular situation, budget and taste.
Because of its classic style, look and overall luxurious appearance, many people would prefer to have hardwood flooring. Even though it is more expensive than carpet, hardwood may be worth the extra money up front because it will ultimately last much longer than carpet.
Because of its makeup and features, hardwood flooring is a great option for main living areas of the home and even bedrooms, but might not be the best option for basements, kitchens and bathrooms.
Carpet, meanwhile, is a much more budget-conscious flooring option. However, that doesn’t mean it’s cheap and isn’t a great choice for certain rooms and situations. Carpet is plush, warm, comfortable, safe and reduces noises.
Because of these factors, carpet is a great choice for bedrooms, less formal family rooms and waterproof basements, especially if you have children in your home. At the same time, pros do not suggest carpets for bathrooms, kitchens or laundry rooms because of the likelihood of exposure to a lot of liquids.
The benefits of hardwood flooring are remarkable when you think about it. What other flooring option never goes out of style, lasts for generations, matches every décor, and is so easy to maintain? But what you may not know is that wood floors have significant health benefits as well.
Wood directly impacts indoor air quality. In fact, wood floors can significantly improve indoor air quality when compared to other flooring options.
The number of people affected by allergies each year is staggering. According to the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, researchers believe that nasal allergies affect about 50 million people in the United States alone, and that number is increasing every year. Allergies affect as much as 30 percent of the adult population in the U.S. and about 40 percent of children. Allergic disease, including asthma, is the fifth leading chronic disease in the U.S. for people of all ages. In children under the age of 18, it is the third most common.
Allergens can exist everywhere. Some are more common outdoors, like pollen and mold spores, while others are more common indoors, like dust mites and animal dander. All allergen sources, however, can be present anywhere at any time. And because the cost of air-borne allergy-related illnesses can be staggering – up to $17.5 billion in health care costs and more than 6 million work and school days lost each year – it is in everyone’s best interest to prevent and minimize allergy triggers whenever possible.
While outdoor allergens can be hard to control, there are ways to minimize the impact of allergens that occur indoors. All of the triggers for most air-borne allergens can accumulate indoors. They can gather on clothing, in your hair, on furniture, on curtains, on drapes, on bedding, on walls, and on flooring.
Frequent dusting, vacuuming, and washing will minimize many indoor allergies, but these activities also can stir them up. One way to prevent allergens altogether is to eliminate many of the areas where they can gather. Flooring is one area of the indoor environment where a number of indoor allergens can be controlled. Certain types of flooring, such as carpet, are simply better gathering places for allergens. Small microorganisms, pollen, dust, dust mites, mold, animal dander, and other substances tend to accumulate in carpet fibers. Other flooring types, such as wood, tend to minimize the accumulation of allergens because there are no fibers to trap these substances. Taking steps to minimize these kinds of allergens can result in improved indoor air quality.
A study conducted by Harris Interactive reports that most U.S. homeowners believe that their family’s health is directly related to the cleanliness of their floors. And the majority believe that wood floors are most effective in improving indoor air quality.
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) agrees. They report that wood floors are hypoallergenic, which is a huge advantage for allergy sufferers. Wood floors do not harbor microorganisms or pesticides tracked in from outdoors as other flooring options can. They also minimize the accumulation of dust, mold, and animal dander, which improves overall indoor air quality.
Wood flooring also improves indoor air quality in another, less tangible, way. This is because wood is a carbon-neutral product.
As most people know, as a tree grows, it takes in carbon dioxide from the environment and produces oxygen. What most people do not know, however, is that products made from wood, including wood flooring, store carbon during their service lives. In other words, even after the tree used to make wood is cut down and manufactured into flooring, it continues to store carbon during its entire service life. That’s quite a green story and is yet another way wood flooring improves indoor air quality.
In recent years, wood floors also have been improved by utilizing low VOC finishes and adhesives.
VOCs are volatile organic compounds. They are gases that are emitted from products that have been determined to be harmful to humans. Short-term health effects from VOCs can include headaches, nausea, and ear, nose, and throat irritation. Long-term health effects from VOCs can include liver damage, kidney damage, and damage to the central nervous system.
The California Air Resources Board, an organization known as CARB, monitors indoor air quality. CARB has established strict regulations for VOC emissions. It regulates VOCs in wood flooring finishes and adhesives, and provides the strictest VOC standards in the nation. Other areas of the country are regulated by the Ozone Transport Commission. CARB now is being used as a model to develop national standards to minimize harmful VOC emissions.
CARB places significant restrictions on VOCs throughout the state of California. Compliance is mandatory and can result in severe financial penalties if not followed. Fines can be as high as tens of thousands of dollars, per violation, per day. These fines can add up quickly and can be devastating to many companies. And it’s not just the contractor who is at risk either. Penalties can be applied to the contractor, the product distributor, and the product manufacturer as well.
With all of these positive research results, it is easy to see how wood floors can reduce indoor allergens and improve overall indoor air quality. Communicating these positive messages to your customers can help you steer them toward products that will not only improve their décor, but also their health.
Does hardwood flooring really have a positive impact on our Health and Environment?
Your home is your identity and when you consider home interiors, all should be as beautiful as the outside of your home. Many interior designers are choosing wood flooring as their preference for elegance and style, but not only because of its look. Hardwood flooring has extensive health and environmental benefits.
Though the term ‘hardwood flooring’ implies the cruel practice of cutting down trees that can lead to deforestation if poorly controlled. Many are not directly aware that the annual net growth of trees from which hardwood is sourced is much greater than the annual harvest. Hence, if you are someone who loves the environment as much as you love your hardwood floors, you need not fret over the thought that it contributes to deforestation.
Hardwood flooring can also be the chosen flooring option for your home as it consumes less energy. Since you save on energy utilization, you directly contribute to energy conservation and this goes without saying that saving energy contributes towards a greener environment. How many times in 50 years would you replace your carpet, compared to wood flooring which can be rejuvenated?
Wooden or hardwood flooring also comes with the added advantage of improving the quality of indoor air. This is essential in most houses because people, especially children and the elderly are sometimes susceptible to many air-borne diseases and allergies that might stem from dust stored within your home carpets. With hardwood floors this chance can be negated.
Also it needs to be kept in mind that since wood is a natural product which is carbon neutral; it can produce oxygen in the growth cycle and store carbon in its service life.
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Even after you have exhausted the use of hardwood floors, it can still be used and recycled.
Hardwood floors are known for their longevity, which is about 75 years plus, and when you decide to install hardwood floors in your home, you take a prudent decision as it does not require replacing as often as any other kind of flooring option. Again this reduces carbon footprints being repeated regularly.
When you analyze and calculate how many trees have to be cut to provide beautiful solid hardwood flooring for people, you have to keep in mind that once the trees are cut to provide wood, you would not need to cut another for at least a hundred years. Simple mathematics tells us that this makes hardwood floors accessible to all, yet gentle on the environment.
The facts regarding hardwood floors, as discussed above are enough to persuade anyone to try hardwood flooring in their homes too. The beauty aside, you can be sure that it is healthy for you and the environment.
Acclimation (also called conditioning) is a critical component of the installation process, and it is the vehicle for allowing wood flooring to match its installation environment. Acclimation is of vital importance to a successful installation, and it warrants an in-depth discussion focused on best practices.
Most solid wood flooring products are manufactured to moisture contents between 6 percent and 9 percent to closely match the interior equilibrium moisture content (EMC) of most homes in temperate regions (with HVAC operable), year round. When properly manufactured solid wood flooring is exposed to interior EMCs in the 6 percent to 9 percent range, acclimation is a short and simple process.
However, when a customer stores wood in an uncontrolled environment (such as an unconditioned warehouse, basement, pole building, or garage) for a length of time before the installation, the acclimation process becomes more challenging. These uncontrolled environments typically cause the wood flooring to take up moisture and increase in dimension (the change in product width is the biggest concern). This is the scenario for which you, the installer, must be wary. If you are going to install wood that has been stored in a cool or damp environment, please be sure to take the extra time and care required to acclimate properly.
Manufacturers typically provide written instructions on how to acclimate their products for the best performance. The bottom line is, wood is wood, and most of those instructions say the same thing. When the manufacturer doesn’t provide instruction on acclimation of their product always defer to NWFA Guidelines.
NWFA Installation Guidelines require that the average wood subfloor MC is no more than 4 percent from the average MC of strip flooring, or 2 percent for plank flooring, at the time of installation. The moisture content of the wood flooring and the subfloor (if wood based) is typically determined by a handheld resistance-type meter (prong meter) or capacitance-type meter (pinless meter). It is hopeful that you have at least one type, or both types, of these meters at your disposal. If these steps are followed, a successful installation should result.
In the situation where the wood flooring is especially high in MC, extra time may need to be added to the acclimation period. Keep in mind, changing the MC in the wood will also change the shape of the wood. This will affect the installation process and must be taken into account during scheduling. To help expedite the process, there are several things that you can do to help reduce the MC of the flooring. It is highly recommended that all of the material be removed from the boxes (or other packaging) and placed on stickers. Stickers can be anything from scrap pieces of flooring to thick strips of cardboard. The goal is to create 1/2”-plus gaps between the boards as they are acclimating. Typically, these stickers are laid out on the subfloor perpendicular to the length of the flooring at 24” intervals to provide adequate support.
Once properly oriented to your available floor space, stack the first layer of flooring across the stickers. Lay the second layer of stickers on top of the first layer of flooring and repeat this pattern. Take caution not to stack too many layers of flooring, as the weight may leave an indent on the bottom layers depending on the hardness of your stickers and the hardness of the flooring you are acclimating (obviously less dense woods like walnut and cherry will indent easier than an oak or hickory). Be sure to align the stickers vertically as you stack your layers of flooring. Alignment of stickers will evenly support the flooring during acclimation. Also, the more time you have to condition, the closer the wood MC will be to both the environment and the subfloor on which it will be installed.
There are other effective methods of acclimation as well, but the key is to ensure that the wood has ample exposure time to the environment. The acclimation process is often overlooked or not done properly – typically due to time constraints on the jobsite. By following the simple steps outlined in this article, you can greatly reduce the concern of a customer coming back to you shortly after installation complaining about a gapped, cupped, or noisy installation.
The natural beauty, warmth, longevity and cleanliness of hardwood flooring is unmatched by any other type of flooring on the market. The initial investment will more than pay for itself by increasing the market value of your house, as well as improving your daily lifestyle while at home. We consistently refinish floors that have been installed for over 100 years, and make it our goal to give you a floor that will outlast any of us. Two of the most overlooked steps you can take to ensure the quality and longevity of your floor is to humidify your home to between 35-45% and to not wear shoes in the house. Other common problems can be alleviated by ensuring that there is a stable subfloor, not sliding furniture across the floor, and avoiding water damage (occurs often from copper lines to fridges and dishwashers, overwatering plants, and unprotected windows and doors).
Maintenance/Cleaning and Care – After applying the final coat, the longer you can postpone moving your furniture back the better. Do not drag or pull anything across the floor. Always lift and set your furniture in place. We recommend using floor glides/felt protectors under all of your furniture. Do not mop your floor for the first month. Never use Murphy’s oil soap, Pledge for floors, Swiffer wet mop, or any product with oils or waxes in them. Wipe up spills with a damp dishcloth. Vacuum or sweep using a soft broom on a regular basis. We recommend using Bona floor cleaner or a solution of 1 cup vinegar to 1 gallon water to clean your hardwood floors on a regular basis. Excessive cleaning, particularly with commercial cleaners, can dull your finish.
220/110 Volt Electricity – 110 volt power is needed for installation and 220 volt power is needed for sanding; these must be accessible within 100 feet of work areas. It is the responsibility of the homeowner or contractor to notify Wood Wise in advance if a 220 hookup is not available. If the 220-hookup is not operational, a generator may be provided for $175.00/day. If other subs are using 220 or 110 power at the same time, electrical overloads may occur, causing delays.
Applying finish/stain - When the coating has begun, doors and windows must remain closed and fans turned off; as there can be no draft across the floor. Temperature must remain at 68 degrees or above for the entire process. After about 2 hours it is generally ok to open outlying windows for ventilation. Do not walk across the floor until the finish is dry to the touch. Then you may walk in stocking feet and open all windows as needed. (Water based finishes dry in about 3-6 hours, oil based finishes dry in approximately 8-12 hours.) Some species of wood do not take stain evenly and you may notice areas that are blotched and streaked; this is natural and not a defect. We do not recommend staining a floor to match an aged natural floor. The natural maturing process should be allowed to take place.
Color Variations – Color variations occur naturally in wood. Some species of wood darken significantly as they age, and other species are prone to fading/yellowing from sunlight. We recommend keeping rugs and objects with a large surface area off the floor for at least a month. Some wood species, such as cherry, are very photosensitive, and we recommend leaving the floor as exposed as possible for up to a year to avoid distinct fade lines.
Wood indenting – Some species of hardwood floors are prone to denting by high heels, cleat type shoes, and many heavier objects. Small rollers on pianos, refrigerators, and heavy furniture can also damage your floors. Please be aware of this and take precaution when moving heavy objects across your floor. Wood finish is a different animal than paint, and is very difficult to touch up.
Sub‐floor – Your estimate was written in good faith. Issues hidden by the existing flooring will be addressed should they arise. Extra work may be needed if the subfloor is uneven. Cost of this is determined on a case by case basis. Structural integrity may or may not be obvious to us and we are not certified in that area. If we find the integrity of the subfloor to be in question we will discontinue installation until the problem has been addressed. Structural subfloor issues are the responsibility of the homeowner or contractor.
Scheduling – We do everything we can to keep your job on schedule. During the estimate some jobs do not appear as time consuming or complex as they turn out to be. Should we have to move the start time or day we will notify you as soon as possible and work with you to accommodate you in rescheduling. Wood Wise is not responsible for costs incurred due to any overnight stays, meals, or boarding of animals. Wood Wise reserves the right to bill additional charges at an hourly rate for time we are unable to work due to poor planning and preparation on the customer’s side.
Toilets/Pedestal Sink – Please hire a plumber to remove and replace these items when necessary (when getting new wood installed). Wood Wise can remove your toilet if included in the estimate; however reinstallation is always the responsibility of the homeowner or contractor. Chips, cracks, or leaking lines are the responsibility of the homeowner or contractor.
Appliances – We do not move appliances, unless noted on the estimate. If it has been arranged for Woodwise to move them. Woodwise will not turn off any water supply, disconnect nor reconnect water lines or gas lines. It is the responsibility of the homeowner or contractor to prepare the appliances to be moved out. **Wood Wise is not a moving company, and although we take much care, we are not responsible for dings, dents, or other damage that may occur to the appliances or walls while moving them out.
Furniture - Wood Wise is not insured nor trained to move furniture. It is the homeowner’s responsibility to have all furniture removed from the areas that we are working in. Wood Wise is not to be held liable if items are damaged because they were placed too closely to the work area. It is up to our discretion to move any items left in the work area. If items are moved by Wood Wise, we are not in any way held liable if damage occurs.
Pets – Being focused on our work, and considering that we are continually moving in and of the house, we cannot be responsible for your pet’s welfare. We frequently have to open doors to others rooms of the house to install and sand, and cannot be held liable if your pet escapes.
Breakable Items - Hanging light fixtures, pictures and mirrors, etc. should be removed from the work area. We cannot be held liable if something is damaged because it is in the way or because we had to move it. Occasionally, ceramic tile from a fireplace or on the floor will be cracked or chipped; this can easily be repaired by your tile contractor and is the responsibility or the homeowner or contractor.
Crawl Spaces- If you have a crawlspace under or near your hardwood floor, you may experience large moisture swings due to changes in ground temperature and saturation. A moisture barrier should be installed between the subfloor and your hardwood floor. Using this application, we still cannot guarantee minimized floor board contraction. We also recommend installing a vapor barrier to the underside of the subfloor.
Baseboards – When sanding and applying stain/finish, we are working right next to the existing baseboards. We always recommend re-painting baseboards or door jams after the stain application. We will remove and re-install if included in the estimate. We are always careful but depending on the condition of the base it may split or break. All painting and caulking is recommended to be completed by a painter.
Dust Free Environment – We do not guarantee a 100% dust free environment. We use the best equipment available on the market, and our sanders have powerful vacuums attached to collect dust from the floor. Sanding an entire floor creates a large amount of dust, and though most of it will be trapped in our vacuums, some will escape into the room. Sealing with plastic can help and it must be noted on the estimate if you want Wood Wise to provide this service. The plastic needs to be removed between the second and final coats.
Re‐coating – This can be a less invasive and cost effective way of extending the life of your hardwood floors. The process simply adds and additional coat of finish, which improves longevity, but will leave the appearance largely unaltered. However because of oils, waxes, and lotions found in the home that may be transposed to the floor there can be bubbling or cratering. Oils and waxes are commonly found in cleaners marketed as “restorers” or “refreshers”, such as Murphy’s Oil Soap or Swiffer Cleaners. (Woodwise strongly recommends against using these products) We cannot tell by looking at the floor if there is wax or oil built up on it. Because of this, proper adhesion of the recoat cannot be guaranteed and a waiver must be signed. If you can find out what type of finish was used on your floor previously, this can drastically reduce the risk involved in a recoat.
Finish - Because we are not working in a sterile environment, we cannot guarantee a “table top” finish. Irregularities may be noticeable but should not be prominent. Glare from windows can magnify any irregularities and should not determine acceptance. As the floor is walked/lived on it will become smooth to the feel.
